A Cinco de Mayo Celebration

My column on Tex-Mex cooking was inspired by my trip to Texas during the Cinco de Mayo celebration in San Antonio. I visited my nephew Steve, who is an engineer and budding actor, living in Austin. He took us to San Antonio on May 5, Cinco de Mayo, and we toured the Alamo and the famous Riverwalk of San Antonio.

We sampled the cuisine of the Southwest, and I am bringing you these wonderful recipes to share this delightful Mexican food.

Jicama Appetizer with Red Chile and Lime, Black Bean Chilaquiles with Chipotle, Layered Tortilla-Ricotta Casserole, Salsa de Jitomate Cocida (Cooked Tomato Sauce), Grilled Vegetables and Mushrooms and Flan

Go to Zoe’s World Cinco de Mayo Celebration

Zoe’s World Recipe Book

A Cinco de Mayo Celebration

Jicama Appetizer with Red Chile and Lime

Black Bean Chilaquiles with Chipotle

Layered Tortilla-Ricotta Casserole

Salsa de Jitomate Cocida (Cooked Tomato Sauce)

Grilled Vegetables and Mushrooms

Flan

Zoe’s Easter Breads

French Easter Bread/Brioche

Russian Easter Bread/Kulich

Polish Easter Bread/Babka

A Cinco de Mayo Celebration

My column on Tex-Mex cooking was inspired by my trip to Texas during the Cinco de Mayo celebration in San Antonio. I visited my nephew Steve, who is an engineer and budding actor, living in Austin. He took us to San Antonio on May 5, Cinco de Mayo, and we toured the Alamo and the famous Riverwalk of SanAntonio.

We sampled the cuisine of the Southwest, and I am bringing you some wonderful recipes to share this delightful Mexican food.

Jicama Appetizer with Red Chile and Lime

This dish uses the wonderful root vegetable calledjicama, which can be found in most good produce departments, or in Eastern Asian or Caribbean stores in Utica. It is simplicity itself to prepare, no cooking!

Ingredients:

• 1 medium jicama (about a pound)
• 2 cucumbers
• 2 seedless oranges
• 6 radishes, sliced
• 2/3 cup thinly sliced red onion
• 1/3 cup lime juice
• ½ tsp salt
• 2 tsp powdered hot dried chile
• Chopped cilantro for garnish

Directions:

1. Peel away the skin of the jicama, cut in half. Lay the half on its side and slice thinly. Then, cut into batonnet (long strips).Slice the cucumbers in half lengthwise, remove the seeds with a spoon, and slice into half-moons.
2. Cut ends off oranges and remove rind and pith fromthe sides, then halve them and cut into 1/4 inch thick slices.
3. Mix the jicama, radishes, oranges, onion, salt and lime juice in a bowl. Let marinate for one half hour.

To serve, pile the salad onto a plate and drizzle with accumulated juices. Sprinkle with the hot chilepowder and garnish with cilantro.

Black Bean Chilaquiles with Chipotle

This is our soup course, and it is not what you usually think of as soup, because it is a “dry’ soup. Is that like a jumbo shrimp????? Really, though, the Mexicans eat a lot of what they call “dry soups”. This just means that the liquid isn’t very visible. However, this is absolutely delicious!

The chipotle chile is simply a jalapenochile which has been smoked. The ones we are using are sold in cans swimming in tomato sauce. It gives a wonderful smoky taste to any soup or stew, in additionto a big kick!

Ingredients:

• 1 ¼ cups driedblack beans
• About six cupswater or beef stock, or vegetable stock
• ½  medium white onion, roughly chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
• 4 sprigs of epazote, a Mexican herb, or 2 tsp dried epazote
• 3 canned chipotle chiles en adobo, plus 2 Tbsp tomatoey adobo from the can
• 1 tsp salt.
• 8 oz loosely packed tortilla chips (about five cups)
• ¼  cup sour cream thinned with milk so it is creamier
• ¼ cup finely crumbled queso anejo, or substitute feta or parmesan, or leave it alone
• 1 small ripe avocado, cubed, for garnish

Directions:

1. Put the beans in a 4-quart pot. Measure in 5 cups of broth or water, the onion, garlic and epazote. Cut the chipotle chiles lengthwise in half, scrape out the seeds and slice into strips. Add 1/3 of the chiles to the beans. Set aside the remainder Bring beans to a boil, then simmer, partially covered, over medium heat, until the beans are tender, about two hours. Keep beans submerged during cooking, adding water if necessary.
2. When the beans are done, puree them in batches in a food processor or blender. Transfer them to a large skillet. Stir in enough broth or water to bring the bean sauce to the consistency of thin cream soup. Taste and season with salt.
3. Bring the black bean sauce to a boil over medium heat. Add the tortilla chips, and another third of the chiles. Stir to coat the chips well, then rapidly boil over high heat to soften the tortilla chips, from 2-5 minutes, depending on the thickness of the chips.
4. Scoop the chilaquiles onto a warm, deep serving platter or individual bowl. Drizzle with the cream, sprinkle with the cheese and the remaining chipotle chiles, dot with avocado and eat!!

Layered Tortilla-Ricotta Casserole

This dish is a sort of Mexican lasagna, using tortillas, either fresh or homemade, in the place of the lasagna noodles.

For the Tortillas

To make your own fresh tortillas, get two cups of Masa Harina, which can be purchased wherever Mexican foods are sold. Mix with one cup hot water and a little lard. Take walnut sized piece of the masa and put in in a tortilla press, both sides of which have been covered with small plastic bags to prevent sticking. Press until flat  Put on a dry, hot griddle and cook until small brown spots appear. Cook on the otherside. You are finished! Make about twelve-fifteen tortillas for this small casserole.

Salsa de Jitomate Cocida (Cooked Tomato Sauce)

This sauce is so fabulous, you won’t believe it! You can use it for everything!

Ingredients (For about 4 cups of sauce):

• 1 pound tomatoes, either large ones, or 8-10 plum tomatoes
• 1 to 2 fresh jalapeno chiles, stemmed
• 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil or rich tasting lard
• ½ small onion, thinly sliced
• 1 ½ cups chicken broth
• 1 ½ tsp salt, depending on the saltiness of the broth

Directions:

1. Roast the tomatoes and chiles on a baking sheet, four inches from the hot broiler, or grill on a grill, until blistered and blackened on one side. Turn over and roast on the other side. Cool, then peel, collecting all the juices. Discard the peels, and coarsely puree the tomatoes and chiles in a food processor or blender. You can leave it rather chunky, or make it very smooth.
2. Put the oil in a heavy skillet and heat it. Add the onion and fry until brown. Increase the heat to high and add the sauce. Let cook until it sizzles, and then add the broth and cook until it begins to thicken. Don’t cook down too much. Season with salt.

Grilled Vegetables and Mushrooms

Over a hot fire, grill zucchini, peppers, onions, tomatoes, eggplant, or any other vegetable you desire. Brush with some balsamic vinegar and oil as they are grilling. Remove from grill and slice into small pieces.

For the mushroom layer, cut up some Portobello mushrooms and white mushrooms. Sauté in butter and add some sherry. Cook until sherry disappears and mushrooms have given up their liquid, so that mixture is dry.

To assemble the casserole:

Ladle some sauce on the bottom of the casserole dish, spread the bottom with tortillas, spread some ricotta cheese (seasoned with salt) onto each tortilla, sprinkle with some sauteed mushrooms and/or grilled vegetables, some chopped cilantro or thyme, then add more sauce. Keep going until you have used up all the vegetables, ricotta, sauce and tortillas, and end up with some sauce. Top with some grated cheese, such as Monterey Jack or cheddar, and heat through in the oven until the casserole is bubbly. Serve!

Flan

This dessert is just the ticket at the end of a Mexican meal. Smooth and creamy, it is the perfect ending to a fiery feast.

Ingredients:

• ½ cup plus 1/3cup sugar
• 1 cup half-and-half
• 1 cup milk
• 4 large eggs
• 1 Tbsp brandy
• 1 ½ tsp vanilla extract

Directions:

1. To carmelize the molds: Set six 5-6 oz custard cups into a baking pan deep enough to hold about 2 inches of water. Measure ½ cup of the sugar into a small heavy saucepan. Dribble in ¼ cup water and stir several times.
2. Bring to a boil, wash down any sugar crystals clinging to the sides of the pan with a brush dipped in water, then simmer over medium heat without stirring, until the syrup begins to color. Swirl the pan continually over the heat until the syrup is a deep, amber color. Working carefully, immediately divide the caramel among the custard cups, then tilt the cups to distribute the caramel over the bottom and a bit up the sides.
3. Work fast!! The sugar will harden quickly!!!
4. Pour the half-and-half and the milk into a medium-sized saucepan. Add the 1/3 cup sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then cover and let steep for 20 minutes.
5. Whisk the eggs, brandy and vanillain a large mixing bowl until combined, then slowly whisk in the hot-milkmixture. Pour through a sieve into the prepared molds.
6. Turn on the oven to 325 degrees. Pour about 2 inches of very hot water into the pan around the filled molds. Lay a sheet of foil over the molds, and bake in the middle of the oven just until the custard has barely set, when a knife inserted into the custard comes out clean, about 25-30 minutes. When the custard is cooked, let sit in the water bath, then refrigerate and cool overnight.
7. To unmold, run a knife along the edge of the custard, turn the cup over and rap sharply. The custard should come out onto your plate. Enjoy with some nice strong Mexican coffee!

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Zoe’s World’s Chef Zoe Sharpe and Patsy Seidel with traditional Easter breads; French Brioche, Russian Kulich, Polish Babka and Greek Tsoureki

Zoe’s Easter Breads

Spring is time for the beautiful breads of Easter. I am going to explore the similarities and differences among the Easter breads made in four different countries: France, Poland, Greece and Russia.

All four breads have a lot in common: They are rich yeast breads. Three of them rely heavily upon butter for a lot of their flavor, and the bread from Greece uses that country’s most famous baking fat, olive oil.

It seems likely that the bread from Greece, Tsoureki, is the oldest of the breads. It is made to hold re-dyed Easter eggs, a symbol of the religious season. It is believed that Mary Magdalene traveled to Rome to go before the Roman Emperor and present him with red eggs, which she used to explain the Trinity. In any case, red-dyed eggs are very popular in both Russia and Greece at Easter time.

History tells us that brewer’s yeast was brought to Paris during the time of King Stanislaw of Poland, whose daughter married the king of France. Up until this time, bakers in France used a different sort of yeast, which was simply called baker’s yeast. It seems that the introduction of brewer’s yeast, which was used in making beer, gave the French baked goods “quite a lift!” Since that time, the French have excelled in producing marvelous baked goods.

The queen of French bakeries is the brioche, which is widely eaten even today for both breakfast, snacks and as a base for hors d’oeuvres. Brioche is called a cake, and it is this cake that Marie Antoinette referred to when she uttered those fatal words, “Let them eat cake!” She actually said, “Let them eat brioche!”

Brioches are made in many different forms and shapes, and there are special baking pans and tins just for brioches. However, they can be made in coffee cans, bread pans, braided and in other simple forms, so that you don’t have to invest in a lot of equipment to enjoy them. With the advent of the bread machine, enjoying brioche is easy! The basis for a brioche is the addition of eggs, milk and butter to the plain flour. It can be further enriched with raisins or other additions. In fact, our second bread, a Polish babka, is in fact nothing more than a brioche translated to Poland. We know that there was much back and forth between France and Poland when a Polish-born queen ruled in France, and it is no surprise to find the famous Polish babka a sister to the brioche. Which came first? I don’t know, but I do know that they are “related” and are both delicious!

Below are my recipes for making babka in a braided form, topped with lots of poppy seeds and bursting with Sultana (golden) raisins. Every Polish cook will have his or her own special recipe, but this one is especially simple and wonderful.

Our Greek bread is called Tsoureki, and while it looks a lot like the babka, in that it is braided, it tastes completely different. It is enriched with crushed almonds, orange zest and aniseed, and as we mentioned: olive oil is the fat.

Our final Easter bread is Kulich, from Russia. It is very similar to the brioche recipe, and it also includes brandy and vanilla to give even more flavor. In addition, it includes almonds, like the Tsoureki, and raisins, like the babka, but it also contains candied fruits as well. This is truly the fanciest of breads, and it is always served with Pascha, the famous Russian cheese accompaniment. Easter breads always are very rich, since they are meant to contain all the foods which were removed from the Christian’s diet during Lent: butter, eggs and milk. All these breads would be welcomed heartily by those breaking the seven-week fast, and they are truly wonderful! Please try them, and enjoy!

French Easter Bread/Brioche

Ingredients:

• 2 eggs
• 1 cup + 6 Tbsp water
• 1/2 cup butter
• 1 1/2 tsp salt
• 4 Tbsp sugar
• 4 cups bread flour
• 4 Tbsp dry milk
• 2 tsp yeast

Directions

1. In a breadmaker, add all ingredients in the order listed and turn to dough with yeast setting.
2. After the dough rises, put in a buttered brioche pan, a loaf pan, or any other shape you desire. Let dough rise again.
3. Beat one egg with 2 tsp sugar. Brush on top of the loaf. Bake in a preheated oven - 350 degrees, for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown.
4. Note: for the traditional brioche shape, detach a piece of dough equal to about 1/4 the entire dough mass. Roll it into a ball. With your finger, push down the small ball into the center of the larger dough ball (in the brioche pan), making sure you touch the bottom of the pan to seal the two pieces together

Chef Zoe Sharpe’s Russian Easter Bread/Kulich

Russian Easter Bread/Kulich

Ingredients

• 4 ½ cups bread flour
• 1 ¼ cups milk
• 4 tbsp. butter
• ¼ cup sugar
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 tbsp. brandy
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 2 eggs
• ½ cup blanched and slivered almonds
• ½ cup golden raisins
• ½ cup candied fruits dusted with flour

Directions

1. Mix ingredients in bread machine, or by hand.
2. Allow dough to rise.
3. Bake at 350 degrees until beginning to brown.

Chef Zoe Sharpe’s Polish Easter Bread/Babka

Polish Easter Bread/Babka

Ingredients

• 3 eggs plus water to equal 1 1/3 cups

• 4 cups bread flour

• 1 ½ tsp. salt

• ¼ cup sugar

• 1 stick butter

• ¼ cup dried yeast

• 1 cup golden raisins

Directions

1. Mix ingredients in bread machine, or by hand.
2. Allow dough to rise.
3. Bake at 350 degrees until beginning to brown.

Chef Zoe Sharpe’s Greek Easter Bread/ Troureki

Greek Easter Bread/Tsoureki

Ingredients

• 1 cup milk
• 4 cups bread flour
• 1 tbsp. yeast
• 2/3 cups sugar
• ½ cup chopped almonds
• 2 tbsp. slivered blanched almonds
• 1 tsp. salt
• zest of half an orange
• 1 tsp. anise seed
• 2 tbsp. olive oil
• 2 eggs

Directions

1. Mix ingredients in bread machine, or by hand.
2. Allow dough to rise.
3. Bake at 350 degrees until beginning to brown.

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